Nobody told me you don't need a rental car in Morocco. I figured that out the hard way — after spending 20 minutes on a car rental website, watching the price climb past €400 for a week, and closing the tab out of spite.
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| Morocco Bus |
Turns out, Morocco has one of the most functional bus networks in Africa. Two main operators — CTM and Supratours — cover nearly every city worth visiting, including places the train doesn't reach. Buses are cheap, mostly air-conditioned, and surprisingly punctual. This guide covers everything: how to book, what to pay, which operator to pick, and when to skip the bus entirely for a shared taxi.
No rental car required. Seriously.
Why Take the Bus Instead of the Train (or a Car) in Morocco?
Morocco's train network — ONCF — is genuinely good. Comfortable, fast, and clean. But it only connects a handful of cities: Casablanca, Rabat, Fès, Marrakech, Tangier, Oujda. That's it.
The train doesn't go to Chefchaouen, Agadir, Essaouira, Merzouga, or any of the desert towns. For most backpacker itineraries, you'll hit a wall quickly.
That's where buses come in. They go almost everywhere the train doesn't, the prices are low (think 50–200 MAD for most routes), and booking is easy — either at the station or online.
Renting a car costs more, requires an international license in some cases, and parking in medinas is a puzzle nobody needs. The bus is just easier for independent travel.
CTM vs. Supratours: Which Bus Should You Take in Morocco?
These are the two operators you'll use most. They're not the same, and choosing between them matters depending on your route.
CTM Morocco
CTM (Compagnie de Transports au Maroc) is the older, more established operator. It runs buses across Morocco and into some European destinations (Spain, France). The fleet is generally modern, with assigned seating, air conditioning, and luggage policies that are actually enforced.
CTM is the safer bet for long overnight routes. They have their own dedicated bus stations in most cities — sometimes separate from the main gare routière — and their buses tend to leave on time. Their website and app both work for online booking, which is a real advantage.
Supratours Morocco
Supratours is owned by the national train company, ONCF. That's the key difference. If you're arriving by train somewhere and need to continue to a city the train doesn't reach, Supratours often has a connecting bus leaving from right outside the train station. The Marrakech-to-Essaouira route is the classic example: train to Marrakech, Supratours bus the rest of the way.
Supratours buses are comfortable and reliable, though their network is slightly smaller than CTM's. Prices are comparable.
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| ALSA bus Morocco |
Quick Comparison Table
| CTM | Supratours | |
|---|---|---|
| Network size | Larger (more destinations) | Focused on train connection cities |
| Online booking | Yes (website + app) | Yes (website) |
| Punctuality | Good | Good |
| Train integration | No | Yes — connects directly with ONCF trains |
| Price range | Similar | Similar |
| Night buses | Yes | Limited |
Bottom line: If you're connecting from a train, take Supratours. For everything else, CTM is usually your first call.
How to Book Bus Tickets in Morocco (Step by Step)
Option 1: Book Online
CTM's website (ctm.ma) and app both allow seat selection and payment by card. It works. Book at least a day ahead on popular routes — Marrakech to Agadir in particular fills up fast on weekends.
Supratours has an online booking system too (supratours.ma), though the interface is a bit clunkier. Still functional.
Option 2: Buy at the Station
For less popular routes, same-day purchase at the counter is usually fine. Bring cash as a backup — card terminals occasionally have issues.
The Luggage Fee (Read This Before You Board)
This catches almost every first-timer off guard. Both CTM and Supratours charge a small fee for checked luggage — usually 5 to 10 MAD per bag. You pay at the counter before boarding and receive a luggage tag. The tag gets attached to your bag before it goes in the hold.
Don't skip this step. Drivers do check for tags, and untagged bags cause delays. It's not a scam — it's just policy. Factor it in, it's small change.
Carry-on bags (backpacks that fit overhead) are free.
Popular Routes, Travel Times & Prices
These are approximate prices based on 2024 fares. Prices shift slightly by season and operator, so treat these as ballpark figures.
Marrakech to Essaouira
- Duration: ~3 hours
- Price (CTM): ~75–90 MAD (~$7–9 / €6–8)
- Price (Supratours): ~75 MAD — often the go-to here given the train connection
- Tip: Morning departures are most frequent. Book ahead in summer — this route is popular with day-trippers and tourists.
Fès to Chefchaouen
- Duration: ~4.5 to 5 hours
- Price: ~50–70 MAD (~$5–7 / €4.50–6.50)
- Note: CTM runs this route. Buses depart from the main CTM station in Fès. Chefchaouen has no train station, so the bus is the main option. Some travelers go via Chefchaouen Bus (a separate local company) — it's cheaper but less predictable.
Marrakech to Agadir
- Duration: ~3.5 hours (via new highway)
- Price: ~100–130 MAD (~$10–13 / €9–12)
- Note: This route has many daily departures. Book online, especially during Eid holidays when it sells out.
Marrakech to Merzouga (Desert)
- Duration: ~10 to 11 hours
- Price: ~160–200 MAD (~$16–20 / €14–18)
- Note: Night buses exist and save you a night's accommodation. Bring a jacket — desert nights are cold and the AC stays on regardless. This is one of the longer routes where paying for a CTM seat over a cheaper local bus genuinely matters for comfort.
Grand Taxis: When to Skip the Bus
Grand taxis are not regular taxis. They're old Mercedes sedans — usually beige or white — that run fixed routes between towns and fill up before departing. Each car takes 6 passengers: 2 in the front, 4 in the back. Yes, 4 in the back.
You pay per seat, not per car (unless you want to pay for all remaining seats to leave faster, which is an option). Prices are set by route and usually cheaper than the bus for short distances — 20 to 40 MAD for a 30-minute hop is normal.
When Grand Taxis Make Sense
- Short distances between nearby towns (Chefchaouen to Tetouan, for example)
- Routes where no direct bus exists
- When you're in a hurry and the next bus isn't for two hours
- Getting from a bus station to a medina entrance when a regular petit taxi is unavailable
When They Don't
- Long routes — 4 hours crammed in the back is not comfortable
- When you're traveling solo and don't want to wait for the car to fill (could take an hour)
One practical note: Grand taxis leave from specific spots — often near the main bus station but not always. Ask locals or your riad host where the taxi stand for your destination is. Google Maps usually doesn't know.
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| Big taxi or grand taxi in morocco |
FAQ: Buses in Morocco
Are buses in Morocco safe for solo female travelers?
Generally, yes. CTM and Supratours buses have assigned seating, which avoids the issue of sitting next to whoever decides to sit with you. Most female solo travelers report no major issues. Overnight buses are fine, though you may want to choose a window seat. Trust your gut at stations — they can be busy and a bit pushy.
Do CTM and Supratours buses have toilets onboard?
No. Neither operator has onboard toilets as standard. Both make rest stops every 2 to 3 hours on long routes, where there are basic facilities. Go before you board and plan accordingly.
Can I buy tickets on the same day?
For most routes, yes — except during Ramadan, summer holidays, and Eid, when popular routes (Marrakech to Agadir especially) can fill up days in advance. When in doubt, book the night before.
Is there WiFi on the bus?
CTM advertises WiFi on some routes but it's unreliable. Don't plan around it. Download your content in advance.
What's the difference between CTM and the cheaper local buses (Supratours concurrents)?
Plenty of private operators run buses on the same routes for less money — sometimes 30–40% less. The tradeoff is comfort, departure time reliability, and luggage handling. For budget travelers comfortable with uncertainty, they're fine. For long routes or night travel, the extra few dollars for CTM is worth it.
How early should I arrive at the station?
30 minutes for online bookings (to check luggage and get your tag). 1 hour if buying on the day, especially for morning departures.
One Last Thing Before You Book
Traveling Morocco by bus is slower than renting a car. Accept that upfront and it becomes part of the trip. Bus stations are busy, sometimes chaotic, and full of people going places. You'll share a rest stop coffee with a family from Fès, get confused by the departure board in three languages, and probably board five minutes later than the ticket says. That's fine.
The money you save is real. The 200 MAD bus ride to Merzouga is the same desert as the one at the end of a €400 rental. The bus just has better stories.
Have questions about a specific route? Drop them in the comments — I read every one, and if I've done the route, I'll give you an honest answer.
